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ape name ikan ni ek..
geng2 ikan bandaraya ke? ikan ni pemalu sket berbanding dgn ikan bandaraya nun..
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nak share jugak..tapi bukan est lah bela..ayah est bela kat kampongg...huhuh
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Reply #379 coelacanth's post
latest one 1 colorful clam and 2 ekoq clown fish hitam. My hubby semalam gelabah giler..sebab dapat notice esok tak de electricity from 10 am - 7pm.... kelakar plak.. mengalahkan gelabah masa saya nk bersalin dulu..hehehehe. Bila call kedai aquarium tu, depa kata no hal...beli bateri je.....Tu la penangan orang baru nak belajar. Btw, saya punya nemo tu seminggu dua ni macam dah tak cunn.....ada bintik2 mcm kene chicken pox pulak rupanya.. kenapa ye? Anyone know? |
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Goldfish
Common Name: Ryukin
Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
Family: Cyprinidae
Origin: China/Japan
Size: 6 inches
Care and Feeding:Does better at the higher end of the 鈥榗oldwater temperatures鈥 |
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Goldfish
Common name: Black Moor
Scientific name: Carassius auratus var.
Family: Cyprinidae
Origin: Domesticated; originally from China
Size: Reach a size of around 12cm/5 inches which is small for the goldfish family. Under some conditions can reach 10"
Description: All black veiltail goldfish with telescopic eyes(that can take 2-3yrs to fully develope), a double caudal fin and are of the metallic scale type. With age they develope a bronze hue on the underside and the fins.
Care and feeding : They are a coldwater fish and are omnivorous so they'll eat all kinds of fresh, frozen, pellet and flake foods fed once a day since they're quite messy. As treats mine love frozen live bloodworms. They are very social and curious and do great in a group amongst their own kind and are great scavengers. It's really not necessary to have other bottom feeders to the aquarium when you have goldfish. Since their eye-sight isn't perfect, they need a little more time to find their food so it's recommended to keep them with other fish with visual handicaps, such as the Bubble Eye Goldfish and Telescope Goldfish.
Temperature: 65-72 F (18-22 C). Mine are kept at 70F. Reportedly they can survive at temperatures close to freezing and in some areas, some people keep them in ponds
Breeding and sexual differences: Very hard to sex when young, but at about 1yr old they become sexual mature. The male is usually smaller and more slender that the female. In the breeding season the male has white prickles/bumps, called breeding tubercles, on his gill covers and head. From above the female will have a fatter appearance as she is carrying eggs. In breeding season you'll notice the male chasing the female. She will then release anywhere from 500-1000 sticky eggs that will basically stick to whatever decor. You must remove the eggs or the parents will eat them.
Comments: Please take into consideration their protruding eyes when buying decor. Even pointed, natural leafs or plastic plants can hurt them. Choose soft and silky plants. I did have live plants with ours but they got eaten very quickly so the plastic plants seen with them is only temperary. I have 3 black moors, one mature and 2 juvies, and are energetic and curious. Great beginner goldfish imo.
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Aku bela udang galah dlm akuarium. Ada info tak? |
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Koi carp
Common Name/s: Koi Carp.
Scientific Name: Cyprinus carpio.
Family: Cyprinidae.
Maximum Size: The size of Koi can vary, some Koi like Ghost Koi will max out at 15-20" will other breeds can reach 30-35" and sometimes abit more.
Care: Koi need a large pond of at least 1000 gallons. They also require a large filtration system that can cope with their waste. They need good water conditions to thrive and grow.
Feeding: Koi can be feed a wide variety of commercail foods including high protien foods for growth and wheat germ through the winter months.
Sexing and Breeding: First you need to sex the fish, females, especially in season are far more rounded than male fish which tend to be slim at all times. The pectoral fins of male fish tend to be larger and more pointed than the females, but this is by no means always the case. I find the only sure way to sex fish is to watch the fish. The ones that lay eggs are female, the ones that chase are the males.
Spawning usually takes place 1-3 days after introducing male to the female. It can take place at any time of day or night, unfortunately, typically spawning seems to happen around two in the morning. Spawning can be triggered by temperature changes, change in water conditions, introducing new fish or barometric pressure changes.
Separate males and females for at least one month before you intend to spawn the fish. Provide a reasonably small pond, ideally 2 x 3 x 1 metre deep. Or use a spawning net in your main pond. Don't feed the parent fish for a few days before you expect the fish to spawn either. Prepare your growing on pond/s.
Koi will spawn when the water temperature reaches around 18+. As always, you need to ensure prime water conditions with zero ammonia and nitrates. To achieve and maintain the necessary water temperatures earlyish in the season (late May) it is a good idea to provide heated conditions so that you can achieve a spawning as early as possible to maximise the length of the growing season. I recommend using purpose made spawning ropes. These are soft and easy to handle. Don't use blanket weed it is too difficult to collect the eggs without damaging them. A good quantity of media is required to collect all the eggs and encourage spawning IME. Remove eggs as soon as they are laid to prevent parents eating them. This is obviously easy to do if you have used spawning ropes. Move eggs on ropes to a separate tank for hatching. This should contain water of approximately the same temperature as the spawning pond and should be well oxygenated. It does not however need to be filtered. Eggs introduced straight into growing on ponds are vulnerable to predators such as snails, tadpoles and dragon fly larvae etc. Having worked so hard to achieve the spawning in the first place, don't use them as a food source for the local pond wild life!
Comments: Contrary to belief, Koi are not indigenous to Japan. They are believed to originate from eastern Asia, in the Black, Caspian, Aral Seas and China. The earliest written records of Koi were found in China. Koi were believed to be introduced to Japan with the invading Chinese and a first account of them being kept by an emperor in Japan, apparently dates Back to AD 200.
Carp fossils have been discovered in South China dating back about 20 million years. Some varieties are known for their hardiness, which records claim can live for 266 years, see this thread.
Koi, or Nishikigoi. - Japanese for "brocaded" carp - were first described in writing from a Chinese book written during the Western Chin Dynasty, 265-316 A.D. At that time they were described as white, red, black and blue.
What happened to Koi between the 2nd to the 17th century is still a mystery, but many suspect Koi gradually spread through the orient, possibly by way of trade to and from the middle east.
The farmers in the rice-growing region of the Niigata Prefecture started raising magoi (carp) to supplement their winter diet. They raised these carp in the ponds they used to flood their rice paddies. About 200 years ago one of the farmers noticed a carp with some red color. Some of the farmers started separating the fish that had different coloration's, and breeding them together.
The interest in this pastime grew and more color variations were developed. It wasn't until 1914 that some of the most beautiful varieties were shown at a show in Tokyo. Now many keepers often show their Koi in Koi shows or at their local club. Nowdays some Koi can raise very high prices on the market.
Some Koi breeds:
Kohaku
Tancho
Sanke
Goshiki |
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Goldfish
Common name: Oranda
Scientific name: Carassius auratus
Family: Cyprinidae
Origin: China
Size: 7 - 12 inches / 17.8 - 30.5 centimeters. * larger sizes are possible.
Temperature: 65 - 78 掳F / 18 - 25 掳C. *orandas can survive higher and lower temperatures; however, they are most comfortable in this range. They do make good pond fish but if in Northern climates then summer and autumn only.
Description: A deep-bodied fancy goldfish characterized by the wen/hood that grows on top of the head. At times, the wen/hood is liable to partially or completely cover the eyes. The wen/hood begins to grow around 3 or 4 months, but may take up to 2 years to fully develop.
Different colours of fish exist from a deep all over red to black, blue, chocolate, red/white, tricolour and panda which is black and white. The redcap is also a popular type of Oranda with a pure white body and red head growth. You can also get calico Orandas and scale patterns can be matte or metallic. The head is square in shape unlike the fantail which is more pointed and mouse like.
Care: Orandas are compatible with other fancy goldfish varieties, but should not be mixed with faster swimming varieties. Bad water quality may affect the growth of the wen/hood, and low protein may also affect the growth. In Southern states of America such as California and Florida they can be kept in outdoor ponds in mild winters
Feeding: Orandas are omnivorous; they will benefit from a wide range of food, and will eat standard flakes, pellets, bloodworms, daphnia, and leafy vegetables such as lettuce, cabbage, zucchini, cucumber, peas, and spinach.
Comments: In my experience, orandas enjoy the company of other goldfish and are very social fish. This species is one of my favorite types of goldfish!
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Betta
Common name: Siamese Fighting Fish / Betta
Scientific name: Betta splendens
Family: Belontiidae
Origin: Thailand & Various other asian countries
Maximum size: 3 - 3.5"
Minimum Tank size: 1.5 - 2G
Temperature: 23 - 30C (74-86 F)
The Betta is a beautiful fish that exists in all manor of colour varients from whites and silvers through yellows and blues to reds and blacks. It's beautiful flowing fins and graceful movement make it a wonderful fish to own. It lives to be about 2-3 years.
Care:
Bettas originate in the shallow waters in Thailand (formerly called 'Siam', hence their name), Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam, and parts of China. They proliferate rice paddies, shallow ponds, and even slow moving streams. Because of their natural habbitats being fairly enclosued areas Betta keepers can often get away with using tanks as small as a gallon but it is advisable to keep them in at least 2 gallons to keep them happy and give them plenty of space to swim.
Being Tropical fish they love a humid climate and so having a heater in a betta tank is much more important than a filter, especially in a smaller tank were heat loss is quick.
Having the "Labyrinth" organ means that they can also breath air from the surface of the water as well as through their gills. The organ is a maze of folded skin that filters the air for oxygen, hence the name labyrinth.
Feeding:
Bettas will feed fine on dried foods and betta pellets as well as treats of frozen bloodworm or brine shrimp on occasion. They generally like more meaty foods and so will turn their nose up at most flakes.
Bettas also love live food and will happily eat live brine shrimp.
Sexing:
The general rule of sexing is that the Males have long flowing fins whilst the females have much shorter fins. However, watch out for Plakats and other short finned bettas as well as longer finned females .
Breeding: The Betta is a bubblenest builder and the male will build his nest for the female to lay her eggs in. When they are ready to spawn, the pair will display intense coloration and begin circling each other under the bubblenest. The male will wrap himself around the female who has turned on her back. As she expels the eggs, they are fertilized and begin to sink. The male will scoop up the eggs and spit them into the nest. From this point on the male will tend the brood. It is advisable to remove the female, as the male may become aggressive towards her as he tends his young.
Common name: Siamese Fighting Fish / Betta
Scientific name: Betta splendens
Family: Belontiidae
Origin: Thailand & Various other asian countries
Maximum size: 3 - 3.5"
Minimum Tank size: 1.5 - 2G
Temperature: 23 - 30C (74-86 F)
The Betta is a beautiful fish that exists in all manor of colour varients from whites and silvers through yellows and blues to reds and blacks. It's beautiful flowing fins and graceful movement make it a wonderful fish to own. It lives to be about 2-3 years.
Care:
Bettas originate in the shallow waters in Thailand (formerly called 'Siam', hence their name), Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam, and parts of China. They proliferate rice paddies, shallow ponds, and even slow moving streams. Because of their natural habbitats being fairly enclosued areas Betta keepers can often get away with using tanks as small as a gallon but it is advisable to keep them in at least 2 gallons to keep them happy and give them plenty of space to swim.
Being Tropical fish they love a humid climate and so having a heater in a betta tank is much more important than a filter, especially in a smaller tank were heat loss is quick.
Having the "Labyrinth" organ means that they can also breath air from the surface of the water as well as through their gills. The organ is a maze of folded skin that filters the air for oxygen, hence the name labyrinth.
Feeding:
Bettas will feed fine on dried foods and betta pellets as well as treats of frozen bloodworm or brine shrimp on occasion. They generally like more meaty foods and so will turn their nose up at most flakes.
Bettas also love live food and will happily eat live brine shrimp.
Sexing:
The general rule of sexing is that the Males have long flowing fins whilst the females have much shorter fins. However, watch out for Plakats and other short finned bettas as well as longer finned females .
Breeding: The Betta is a bubblenest builder and the male will build his nest for the female to lay her eggs in. When they are ready to spawn, the pair will display intense coloration and begin circling each other under the bubblenest. The male will wrap himself around the female who has turned on her back. As she expels the eggs, they are fertilized and begin to sink. The male will scoop up the eggs and spit them into the nest. From this point on the male will tend the brood. It is advisable to remove the female, as the male may become aggressive towards her as he tends his young.
Common name: Siamese Fighting Fish / Betta
Scientific name: Betta splendens
Family: Belontiidae
Origin: Thailand & Various other asian countries
Maximum size: 3 - 3.5"
Minimum Tank size: 1.5 - 2G
Temperature: 23 - 30C (74-86 F)
The Betta is a beautiful fish that exists in all manor of colour varients from whites and silvers through yellows and blues to reds and blacks. It's beautiful flowing fins and graceful movement make it a wonderful fish to own. It lives to be about 2-3 years.
Care:
Bettas originate in the shallow waters in Thailand (formerly called 'Siam', hence their name), Indonesia, Malaysia, Vietnam, and parts of China. They proliferate rice paddies, shallow ponds, and even slow moving streams. Because of their natural habbitats being fairly enclosued areas Betta keepers can often get away with using tanks as small as a gallon but it is advisable to keep them in at least 2 gallons to keep them happy and give them plenty of space to swim.
Being Tropical fish they love a humid climate and so having a heater in a betta tank is much more important than a filter, especially in a smaller tank were heat loss is quick.
Having the "Labyrinth" organ means that they can also breath air from the surface of the water as well as through their gills. The organ is a maze of folded skin that filters the air for oxygen, hence the name labyrinth.
Feeding:
Bettas will feed fine on dried foods and betta pellets as well as treats of frozen bloodworm or brine shrimp on occasion. They generally like more meaty foods and so will turn their nose up at most flakes.
Bettas also love live food and will happily eat live brine shrimp.
Sexing:
The general rule of sexing is that the Males have long flowing fins whilst the females have much shorter fins. However, watch out for Plakats and other short finned bettas as well as longer finned females .
Breeding: The Betta is a bubblenest builder and the male will build his nest for the female to lay her eggs in. When they are ready to spawn, the pair will display intense coloration and begin circling each other under the bubblenest. The male will wrap himself around the female who has turned on her back. As she expels the eggs, they are fertilized and begin to sink. The male will scoop up the eggs and spit them into the nest. From this point on the male will tend the brood. It is advisable to remove the female, as the male may become aggressive towards her as he tends his young.
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Giant gourami
Common name: Giant Gourami, Common Gourami, Goramy
Scientific name: Osphronemus goramy
Family: Osphronemidae
Origin: Southeast Asia, Indonesia
Size: 18 to 24 inches in the wild (up to 70cms). I've owned one that grew to 14 inches over 4 years.
Care: These fish are not picky. They live in warm stagnant ponds and tolerate a lot of muck. They like soft, acidic water and peat is welcomed. They eat nearly anything and if not fed regularly, the will eat the plants in your tank. Their appearance consists of grey coloring with dark bands when young. The bands fade with age and their scales become edged with black and are opaline in appearance. Young fish are more streamlined and attractive. Older fish become ponderous with various fatty deposits on the head and large fleshy lips, but, they can still be an attractive fish.
Feeding:Giant gouramis are omnivores and will eat flake or frozen food. Many will feed small portions of fresh vegetables as well.
Sexing and Breeding: Dorsal and anal fins are reportedly more pointy in males. They are also reported to make bubble nests of plant material but considered difficult to breed.
Comments: The Osphronemus goramy is the largest of the "gouramis". They are very much the "Oscars" of the labyrinth fish world. They are big, sloppy and full of personality. They become very tame. This one is named "G". He is yet a baby at 6 inches and about a year old; his form is just beginning to change.
When young, O. goramy looks very much like a predator in the form of a leaf fish, or a tiger fish. As they grow, their face and body begins to morph into, well, imagine a chunky dwarf gourami but over a foot long. Their head forms massive fatty deposits, the mouth becomes less aggressive looking with large fleshy lips. Their bodies also grow taller and wider. One theory for this change is that when young their diet IS more predatory and as they age, they become more vegetarian.
They are long-lived. O. goramy is very hardy like many labyrinthine fishes, but drastic changes in water pH and hardness (and other factors) can still cause them to weaken and become ill. They are clever fish and become quite tame.
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Dwarf gourami
Common name/s: Dwarf Gourami
Scientific name: Colisa lalia
Family: Belontiidae
Origin: India, Bengal and Assam
Maximum size: Males - 2 1/2", Females - 2"
Care: They can live in most tropical aquariums with a pH between 6.0 and 7.5, and a temperature of 72-82F. Overally active tankmates, along with fin nippers, should be avoided. They prefer to have their quiet, along with plenty of space. It is best to keep either 1 Dwarf Gourami per tank, or several. Males can be quite aggressive to each other, so if 2 are kept, they must have a large tank with plenty of hiding spaces. They prefer to have some floating plants.
Feeding: Dwarf Gouramis will accept flake food, but also enjoy frozen and live foods. They also will appreciate some vegetable matter in their diet and may eat rotting plants or algae in a planted aquarium.
Sexing: Males are brightly colored, larger, and have a more pointed dorsal fin. Females are mostly silver, occasionally with a hint of other colors. They are smaller and also chubbier in the midsection.
Breeding: The male will build a bubble nest at the surface of the water among floating plants, and where there is not a strong current. After courting the female by intensifying his colors and flaring his fins, she will follow him to the nest. There, the eggs are expelled and fertilized, and the male picks them up and blows them into the nest. After the fry hatch, they must be fed the tiniest of foods (such as infusoria), because they are extremely small.
Comments: Male fish of this species come in several color varieties, including Neon Blue, Powder Blue, and Sunset/Fire Red (shown in picture). The normal male Dwarf Gourami is blue with red vertical stripes
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Kissing Gourami
Common Name/s: Kissing gourami.
Scientific name: Helostoma temminckii.
Family: Helostomatidae.
Origin: Java, Thailand
Maximum Size: They grow quite large, some 6-12 inches (15-30 cm), in captivity, so be prepared to give them space.
Care: They are very adaptable, tolerating most water conditions, but they do like to be warm, in the 26-28C (79-82F). Aquarium layout & size: Because of the fishes eventual size they need to be housed in a fairly large aquarium, 25-30 gallons is suitable. As they are not quarrelsome they may be kept with most fish species, however, beaware that some individual fish have been known to show aggression towards smaller species.
Feeding: Most aquarium foods are accepted, such as flakes, pellets and frozen or freeze dried foods.
Sexing and Breeding: Although they can be breed in the aquarium, do this only if you have plenty of space - a pair will produce up to 10,000 eggs! The sexes are virtually impossible to distinguish.
Comments: There are two colour forms of this fish, the green and the pink. The green fish is considered the wild form and the pink the aquarium form, the later being the most commonly available to the aquarist. This fish is usually kept for their novel way of testing each other's strength. The kissing action is not, as we may suppose, a sign of affection between male and female, but a trail of strength between two males, and forms part of a courtship ritual as they try to impress a suitable female. These fish are very useful in the aquarium because they will pick away at algae, taking it plant leaves without damaging them. |
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Livebearers - Guppy
Common Name: Guppy
Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
Origin: Central North America to Brazil
Maximum Size: 2 inch
Care: This fish is very easy to care for, they are a pretty hardy species and can tolerate a variety of water conditions, but prefer slightly alkaline water. Temperature should be 68-79 |
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Livebearers - Platy
Common name: Platy, sometimes variatus or southern platy.
Origin: North Eastern Central America
Size: 2 - 2 |
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Livebearers - Swordtail
Common name: Swordtail
Scientific name: Xiphophorus helleri
Family: Poeciliidae
Origin: Southern Mexico and Guatemala
Maximum size: 4" or about 10cm (including tail)
Minimum Tank Size: Around 10-15 US gallons
Care: An easy fish for beginners. Needs a temp. of 72-73*F (22-23* C.) Enjoy well-planted aquariums with plenty of room for swimming. They live in loosely grouped schools. Usually Keep 1 male for every 2 females. These fish come in a variety of colors as many other livebearers do. Some varieties include the oringinal wild-type which has olive-green backs, greenish-yellow sides, yellow belly, and a red band. There are also lyretail swords and Hi-fin swordtail varieties. They should be housed with other peaceful community fish such as other livebearers, tetra, plecostomus, among many others.
Feeding: Takes Tropical flake, frozen, live, and freezedried foods.
Sexing: Most likely the easiest fish to sex. Male swordtails have the lower caudal fins extended into a "sword," hence the name. Usually as long as the body, but with new varieties, some may be 3-4 times as long! The females are more rounded and do not have a "sword"
Breeding: These fish give birth to live young. The parents tend to eat their young. At least a day or so birth takes place. (There is usually inteval of little over 30 days between broods,) the adults should be placed in a breeding trap though which the fry can escape. The young can take fine powdered food immediately, and should be fed small amounts about 3 X a day after that. The Females can store sperm for long periods of time so even if you have no males in your tank your females still might continue to give birth every 2 months or so. (These fish seem like they are always pregnant!)
Comments: Very interesting and easy to breed fish, although they have a short life span as being inbreed over years. This can be avoided by getting a trio or more of wild swordtails and house them in a highly planted tank with medium to hard water, good lighting, varied vegetation and plenty of free swimming space.
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Livebearers - Molly
Common name: Balloon Molly / Potbelly Molly
Scientific name: Poecilia latipinna
Family: Poeciliidae
Origin: Gulf of Mexico
Maximum size: 2.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Care: An easy fish for beginners. Leave open space at the top of the tank since these fish seem to be more top dwelling then anything else. Tank should have many hiding places but these spaces are more for fry then the adults. Keep 1 male for every 2 females. These fish come in a variety of colors and are very attractive in large numbers. Colors include but are not limited to pearl, dalmation, sunset, black, bronze, and marble. There are also lyretail balloon molly and sailfin balloon molly varieties. House with other peaceful community fish such as tetras, gourami, and other livebearers.
Feeding: Tropical flake, frozen, live, and freezedried foods are accepted. Very big eaters!
Sexing: Since these are big bellied fish it is sometimes hard to tell males from females. Females have a square stomach while males are more rounded. Also look for a pointed anal fin in males called a gonopodium. Females anal fins are rounded and resemble a fan.
Breeding: Just add water . These fish give birth to live young. Justation period for these fish is 50-60 days. Females can store sperm for long periods of time so even if you have no males in your tank your females still might continue to give birth every 2 months or so. Fry are easily raised on crushed flake food.
Comments: Since these fish are highly inbred the life expectancy is only a year to a year and a half. Fry also grow slower and are not of a sellable size until 6-8 months of age.
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Cichlid - African
Common name: Frontosa Cichlid
Scientific name:Cyphotilapia frontosa, Cypho means 揾ump |
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