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hey there guys..
recently my rear wheel bearing 'pecah' or due. it make this humming sound like a big ATT tyre used by truck/jeep.
after 2 days taking care of it to a mech, its buzzing again. then when checked, the bearing went 'haus' again. this time i change it to more better quality bearing but after few more days goes by...the same thing happen again!..finally this evening, i change to a better quality again, its better than the last one. i bought it from the proton part dealers it self and its cost me around 80 bucks...
if anyone had the same xperience...please help
if i keep changing the bearing every 3-5 days...waaaaaaaaaa can surely make me 'bengkok' loooooor
p/s: ni tadi post kat english session, malas nak translate... penat ah..
[ Last edited by drebartaxi at 13-2-2009 12:02 AM ] |
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Reply #1 drebartaxi's post
mungkin sistem absorber dah tak elok dan rosak....try check. sebab leh jadi beban kat roda dan seterusnya bearing keta mudah rosak... |
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Balas #2 mycos79\ catat
absorber, coil, arm bush, tayar semua tu baru je tukar last month. even brake pad pun dah tukar....
pening betul pulak dibuatnyer.. |
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Reply #3 drebartaxi's post
ko pakai yg ori tak bearing tuh...buat alignment tak? |
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Balas #4 mycos79\ catat
mesti la ORI
aku biasa memang pakai ORI, sebab biasa la kan...kita bawak anak bini org tu, bahaya kalo apa2 hal.. |
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Nie some tips from the net...
If you are having an issue with your wheel bearing it may not be the bearing itself. When you had the new bearing installed, did you check the spindle for any damage?
Also check the races and or replace the races. those are the round thingies the bearing rides on inside the wheel hub. If they are pitted or damaged it will cause pre mature wheel bearing failure.
Also make sure you pack plenty of grease in the bearing, more or too much is better than none, and use a high quality high temp grease.
Check also the grease seals as these can become damaged or dry out from heat and debries such as dirt, salt, water, ect.
Make sure you are tightening all nuts, bolts, ect. to factory specs.
If you tighten the wheel nut too tight it will cause premature failure.
DONOT FORGET to check the remainder of the suspention system, a bad or broken shock/strut ball joint, tie rod end, strut bushing, ect. will all cause excess pressure and wear on your new bearing causing premature failure.
I'd also suggest getting a 4 wheel alignment as this will make sure your camber and caster settings are correct, also this will help with tire wear and improve gas milage. |
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Balas #6 matmin77\ catat
hmmmm...good tips
esok nak gi cek ar..thanks bro |
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Originally posted by matmin77 at 13-2-2009 12:49 AM
Make sure you are tightening all nuts, bolts, ect. to factory specs...
yg nih penting nieh.... sbb tuh tak semua kedai boleh buat walau proton SC sekalipon... |
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salah satu sebab bearing kantoi ada lah cara pemasangan
kalau bengkel bawah pokok biasanya, dia akan hantam bering tu masuk guna box spanner saiz 20 @ 24...
yg gambar ni guna skru driver....
cara ini salah dan memendekkan jangka hayat bearing itu sendiri. tapi banyak bengkel guna cara "brute force" ini samada utk pasang atau utk keluarkan bearing itu.... silap silap gaya, housing bearing tu boleh pecah, serpih, crack dsb.... harus diingat, ukuran bearing ni kenkadang ikut mm... so kalau beli yg tak ori, atau kita duk main hantam utk bukak... perbezaan mm tadi akan menyebabkan berlaku faulty...
bagi aku, tukar bearing ni boleh DIY je...
janji ada alat mcm dibawah ni....
ada juga yg menggunakan hidrolik seperti mesin hidrolik utk kasi tinggikan absober tu...
nasihat aku... menda menda yg 'crucial" seperti bearing , timing belt, minyak gear auto dsb.... elok lah buat kat SC..... |
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kalu nk masukkan bearing secara ketuk......ketuk body bearing yg luar...jgn hentam yg dlm (bg jenis ball bearing atau linear) nnti jahanam bearing. kemudian bila senget masa masuk kuarkan balik. jgn paksa. sebaiknya masuk mesti sekata.kalu cam needle bearing kena tengah2 ler.
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ok dah buat
ok tadi pagi2 sebelum subuh dah buat balik hal bearing ni...
betul la kata korang..aku perati ramai mech ni main ketuk hantam je pakai tukul...janji masuk(kasi paksa)
tadi pagi aku buat balik guna yg betui2 ORI punyer bearing..nak tgk mcmne sehari dua ni...thanks to all yo |
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dah dapat dahhhh...
setelah sekian lama pening kepala ku...rupanya sebab kenapa rear wheel bearing asyik 'makan' atau pecah adalah disebabkan oleh mangkuk luar yang lain jenis.
rupanya, ada dua jenis mangkuk ni. satu ori by m'sia (proton) bearing pun mesti guna bearing made by proton/dari jenis m'sia. ada lagi satu jenis pulak, mangkuk jepun mesti guna bearing yang sesuai dgn mangkuk jepun tu...hehe kelakor pulak dengar mcm ni.
aku dah lupa la pulak apa ke menatangnya mangkuk nih!...dia yang kat luar sekali, yang jadi penutup pada break pad tu...ishhh lupa ah
sebelum ni, aku punya rear wheel guna bearing ori japan made than mangkuk pun japan made...bukan yang asal dari proton. entah bila lah agaknya aku dah tukar sebab dulu taxi aku ni ada dua orang bawak...tu yang buat jadi leceh tuuuuuuu! |
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apsal ko tukar bearing jer?? biler tukar bearing, memang kena tukar mangkuk dier sekali, tak kira lar proton punya ker, atau cap ayam punya ker. haku dulu pernah tukar cap ayam punya, elok jer, janji mangkuk tu pong cap ayam punya jugak lar yg biasanya dijual satu set. haku tak rasa depa jual asing-asing.
kalau bearing jer yg tukar, mangkuk tu guna lama, memang lingkup balik tu tinggi lar kemungkinan dier.. |
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