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TIPS | Cara Kenal Pasti PSU Berkualiti
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Edited by sue_cinta at 21-11-2015 06:48 PM
Seperti mana tajuk... tt nak share dengan geng semua cara camne nak kenal pasti sama ada PSU yg kita nak beli adakah dari jenis yg berkualiti atau tidak?
Antara faktor yg mempengaruhi kualiti sesebuah PSU adalah seperti berikut:-
1. KOMPONEN - Komponen berkualiti memberikan fungsi yg stabil dan membantu dlm ketahanan PSU (bley pakai lama). Kualiti komponen yg chikai akan berikan efek yg sebaliknya.
2. EFISIEN - efisien tak byk beri impak pada kualiti atau tahap kestabilan sesebuah PSU tapi boleh bantu dalam penjimatan ongkos kita utk bayo bil letrik... kengkadang ada PSU yg kipas dia langsung tak pusing bila tak capai tahap optimum (bagus sebab kurangkan pengeluaran haba) dan hanya akan berpusing bila capai minimal temp yg dia keluarkan... sekaligus kurangkan "masalah bising" bila on komputer.
3. KESTABILAN - PSU yg boleh keluarkan output Wattage & Ampere pada keupayaan yg stabil dr segi haba yg dikeluarkan atau melebihi/terkurang current ripple atau tidak shutdown dgn sendiri memberi maksud PSU tersebut mampu memberikan cukup power utk sesuatu unit komputer berdasarkan keupayaan wattage PSU tersebut... kalo PSu tuh tak bagi ciri2 cam kat atas, jangan beli 
4. CIRI KESELAMATAN - PSU yg selamat mesti berfungsi tanpa sebarang short circuit atau berikan kebahayaan pada kita sbg pengguna bila ia gagal berfungsi. Antara ciri keselamatan utk PSU spt perlindungan dari over-temp. Jangan beli PSU yg takde ciri keselamatan... bahaya wooo!!!
Berbalik pada efisien sesebuah PSU, ada coding yg dikeluarkan oleh pengeluar PSU.. nama dia PSU 80+ Power Effiency Ratings
Standard
Bronze
Silver
Gold
Platinum
Titanium
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Edited by sue_cinta at 10-12-2016 04:41 PM
Last update: 10hb Disember 2016 @ 4.38PM
Tier 1 - Antec - High Current Pro, High Current Platinum
- be Quiet! - Dark Power Pro P10, Dark Power Pro 11
- Bitfenix - Whisper
- Corsair - AX, AXi, HXi, RMi, RMx, SF, Vengeance
- Enermax - Platimax
- EVGA - G2, G3, P2, PS, T2, 1000G1, 850W and above GS
- FSP - Aurum PT
- LEPA - G1600
- NZXT Hale90V2
- Seasonic - X, Platinum, Snow Silent, all Fanless units, Prime
- Sentey - Platinum Power, Golden Steel Power
- Silverstone - Nightjar
- Super Flower - Leadex
- Thermaltake - 1250D-T RGB
- XFX - Pro Gold, Pro Black, XTS
Tier 2 - Antec - EDGE, TruePower Classic
- Azza - Platinum
- Cooler Master - V-series (fully modular), VSM-series (semi-modular), Masterwatt Maker (it's way too expensive at 450 USD but it's worthy of being tier 2)
- Corsair - Most RM variants, HX
- Enermax - Digifanless, RG, GX
- EVGA - GQ, B2, 550W and 650W GS
- Fractal Design - Edison M, Tesla R2 650W/1000W, Tesla R3
- FSP - Hydro G
- Gigabyte - XP1200M
- Rosewill - Quark, Fortress, Capstone
- Seasonic - S12G, G-series/SSRM
- Sentey - Solid Power SS
- Silverstone - SX-700 SFX
- Super Flower - Golden Green
- Thermaltake - Toughpower Grand, Toughpower Grand Platinum, Toughpower DPS Platinum, EVO 2.0
- XFX - Pro XXX, XTR, TS Gold
Tier 3 - Antec - High Current Gamer, Neo ECO
- be Quiet! - Straight Power E10
- Bitfenix - Fury
- Corsair - "Grey unit" CXM, CSM, some RM variants
- Deepcool - DQ-ST
- Fractal - Tesla R2, Integra M
- Lian Li - SFX-L
- LEPA - G600
- OCZ - ZX
- PC Power & Cooling - Silencer Mk III, Turbo Cool
- Rosewill - Lightning, Silent Night, Tachyon, Photon
- Seasonic - M12II, M12II EVO, S12II
- Silverstone - Gold Evolution, Strider Gold
- Thermaltake - DPS Gold/RGB, London, BlueEvo 2.0
- XFX - Core, ProSeries Bronze, TS Bronze
- Zalman - EBT
Tier 4 - Antec - EarthWatts/EA Green, Earthwatts Platinum
- be Quiet! - Power Zone, Pure Power L9, Straight Power E9, Pure Power L8
- Corsair - Old CXM "Green unit" variants, Rev. 3 "Green unit" variants
- Cooler Master - GM, GX Storm
- Cougar - LX
- Enermax - Revolution X't
- EVGA - 600B/700B (don't buy the 700B, I don't understand why it exists), NEX-series gold-rated units, BQ
- Fractal Design - Tesla R2 500W
- FSP - Aurum Pro, Aurum
- Inwin - Classic Series
- Rosewill - Capstone G
- Silverstone - Strider Plus, Gold SFX
- Thermaltake - Toughpower Gold, Paris
- XFX - XT
Tier 5 - Antec - Basiq VP-F, Basiq BP
- Corsair - Rev. 2 CX "Green unit" variants
- Enermax - NaXn 82+
- EVGA - 450B/500B, NEX-B
- OCZ - ZT, ModXStream
- Silverstone - Bronze SFX
Tier 6 - Antec - Basiq VP
- Cooler Master - B2
- Corsair - VS
- EVGA - 430W/500W/600W 80 PLUS units
- FSP - Raider Silver
- Fractal Design - Integra R2
- NZXT - Hale82 V2
- OCZ - Fatal1ty
- Rosewill - Hive, ARC (M)
- Silverstone - Strider Essential
- Thermaltake - LitePower, ToughPower, Smart series
- Zalman - GS/GT
Tier 7 - Cooler Master - Elite series
- EVGA - 400W non-80 PLUS certified
- FSP - Hexa
- Thermaltake - TR2
- Cap "Ayam" punya power supply
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ssaya guna cap Vantech ION2+ 600w made in USA sejak 2010.
amat berbaloi dan murah walaupon takde 80bronze semua tu.
paling tak ok cap Cooler Master GX750w,
belum sampai 6 bulan PCdah boleh mati sendiri
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Ok lg tuh momod... osmet aku beli Corsair VS550 550W 80+ Bronze last week...
Sekali ON... tgh installed OS, power cut off.... sekali faulty PSU laa dapat... hahaha 
sian plak kawan tuh bru excited nak try game generasi baru2 nie...
P/S: kami nie adalah generasi golden... hahaha...
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saya pakai seasonic X1050. So far ok. Tapi ah 2 kali tukar sebab tak boleh switch on normally at button PC cassing. Kena switch on dekat power supply... huhuhuhu |
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my next PSU vantech jugak kot.
amat berbaloi baloi.
Dgn 4 hdd
ATI HD GPU. |
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apa yg ko tukar bro? Ko antar PSU ko buat RMA ke?
Bunyi macam bukan salah PSU tuh... maybe switchboard kt chasis ade prob...
Ade try chasis tuh dgn PSU lain?
Kalo still sama takleh ON via Power Button kat chasis... maybe switch kt chasis pnye issue je...
seasonic X-Series considered as superb PSU kot... hehehe
Or, maybe ko bley check I/O pin kt mobo pasang betul ke tak?
Sometimes ade yg salah cucuk kat mobo pin front I/O
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sayang beno momod aziz dengan brand tuh... kekeke
aku sejak guna Seasonic nie... sedikit lupa dah ngan Corsair line PSU nih...
Dulu mmg aku tabik spring... but considering dia nya price different on the same level of quality, Seasonic now jd pilihan di hateeyyy... 
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vantec ion2+ = 80+ certified, model aku guna ion2 yg bkn 80+..
skrg dah xde psu vantec.. sila tukar lain jenama.... 
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ada sstgh psu iklan sbg 80+ based on internal testing, tp x certified...
cth mcm corsair vs.. mmg dia perform above 80% rating tp x certified (xtau kalo skrg dah certify)
masa dedulu memula keluar line vs mmg xde..
plg simple.. utk bab psu.. jgn beli tier 5 dah.. yg tatau mana datang...
yg selain dari tu.. beli ikut daya poket.. kalo mampu amik yg OEM.. yg sniri bikin..
yg brand lain2 nih.. wp dtg dr OEM sama.. design tu pon main peranan..
letih la sket nk kena survey yg mana design tiptop..
yg ptg.. jgn push sampai siling dia all the time.. pendek umor karang..
kalo full load sistem perlu 400w.. any 500-550w will do...
x perlu lbh byk2.. kecuali poket anda mmg tebal..
kalo full load 200.. x payah lajak sampai 700w..
sbb kbykn psu efisyen high load.. tp jarang perform bila low load..
pepehal.. dah nama brg ciptaan manusia.. its not perfek..
nasib pong ada bahgian dia bila mbeli.. |
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corsair vs-series skang dah verified 80+ bronze... maybe xde masalah sebenarnya nk lenjan untuk mereka yg kaki game...
harga pon antara yg affordable untuk entry-level brand tuh... cuma laa, yg memuda baru nk melayan komputer... nk plak yg nk gaming je...
ikut sangat member2 rachun 650W laa... 750W laa...1000w laa... mcm laa pakai quad-SLI or quad-CFx setup utk gpu dia 
gpu pon mampu beli below GTX 950 je... tu pon bley kire ada ke tak.. hahaha...
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official tech spec cuma 80+ white.. bkn bronze..
tp blh jer pakai.. bkn masalah pon 80+ bronze ke apa ke..
janji x overload capacity.. ok je pakai.. even yg bkn 80+..
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kannn.... dulu pakai psu cap ayam je cam AVF ngan CM low end tuh... ok je sampai 4 tahun... kekeke
cam aku cakap laa bro, budak2 zaman skang nie...
semua nk nampak gempak... walhal tatau ape requirement...
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Post time 14-11-2015 03:15 AM
变色卡
Author
Post time 14-11-2015 10:04 AM
