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Prihal minyak hitam direct selling yg menjahamkan injin
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Reply #24 spirkaklampuru's post
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Ceh........ke lain pulak melencong ko...... |
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tak main la pakai minyak direct selling.
orang jantan kena pakai minyak enjin yang sebenar.... motul, Q8, castrol, idemitsu  |
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try Eneos (Nippon Oil)... mantap!!!! "lebih lancar lagi sempurna tanpa karbon"..  |
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Originally posted by ryo_takahashi1 at 28-8-2007 03:30 PM 
silap le ko ni... kalo keta baru la elok pakai fully syn ni... minyak ni nipis.. kalo keta lama memadai semi ajer..
pasal minyak dari direct selling... aku tak rasa minyak ni bermasalah... ...
Kereta baru pakai minyak biasa sajer... cair.... yg full syn tu likat sikit,.... lambat cairnya, lambat tukar warna jadi hitam melegam... cuba kau pergi tanya pomen kereta... full syn ni sesuai dengan kereta lasak (kereta lumba) dan kereta heavy lama jer...
itu kefahaman aku setakat ini, tapi nanti aku mentelaah balik, mana tentu aku silap kefahaman selama ini... |
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Tugas utama minyak enjin adalah utk menghalang metal surfaces dlm enjin dari grinding together and tearing themselves apart akibat geseran, dan salurkan/buang haba generated dari proses tadi. selain bertujuan untuk memindahkan haba dari combustion cycle dan minyak enjin tadi mesti berupaya utuk menahan tekanan kuat byproduk dari pembakaran minyak, spt silica (silicon oxide) dan acids. Minyak enjin juga mesti mampu membersihkan enjin dari bahan kimia tadi and buildups, dan memastikan moving parts coated in oil. Doing this helps minimise exposure to oxygen and thus oxidation at higher temperatures. Semua ini berlaku dlm keadaan haba & tekanan yg melampau and for the most part without succumbing to fatigue or black death.
Black Death ?
Black death first appeared in the early 80's when a horrible sticky black substance was found to be the cause of many engine seizures in Europe. Many engines were affected but Ford and Vauxhall (GM) suffered the most. Faster roads, higher under-hood temperatures, tighter engineering tolerances and overworked engine oils turned out to be contributors to the problem. The oils just couldn't handle it and changed their chemical makeup under pressure into a sort of tar-like glue. This blocked all the oil channels in the engines, starved them of lubrication and caused them to seize. This could all happen in a matter of minutes. I don't recommend this but you can reproduce the effect with a frying pan, cooking oil and a blowtorch. The cooking oil will heat up far quicker than it's designed to and will turn to a sticky black tar in your pan. Either that or it will set fire to your kitchen, which is why I said "don't do this".
Anyway, burning kitchens aside, Black Death was the catalyst for the production of newer higher quality oils, many of them man-made rather than mineral-based.
SLUDGE
The cause is the same as black death and it seems to be regardless of maintenance or mileage. The chemical compounds in engine oils break down over time due to prolonged exposure to high temperatures and poor maintenance habits. When the oil oxidises, the additives separate from the oil and begin to chemically break down and solidify, leading to the baked-on oil deposits turning gelatinous, and that nasty compound is what is lovingly referred to nowadays as sludge. It's like black yoghurt. What doesn't help is that modern engines, due to packaging, have smaller sumps than in the "good old days" and so hold less oil. This means that the oil that is present in the engine can't hold as much crap (for want of a better word) and can lead to earlier chemical breakdown.
The most common factor in sludge buildup is mineral oils combined with a lack of maintenance by the car owner combined with harsh driving conditions. But this isn't true in all cases. For some reason, a 2005 Consumer Reports article discovered that some engines from Audi, Chrysler, Saab, Toyota, and Volkswagen appear prone to sludge almost no matter how often the oil is changed.
VW, Audi, Saab punya masalah yg serupa, nie toyota punya cite;
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Better guna minyak enjin seperti yg telah di rekomen oleh pembuat keta anda
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Reply #29 paler kembang's post
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bang... minyak fully syn ni nipis... jadi sesuai utk enjin2 baru yg piston suma masih ketat... berbanding semi atau mineral yg lebih tebal... sbb tu fully syn react lebih baik pada suhu yg sejuk sbb dia nipis... masalah kerosakan enjin bermula seawal waktu kita putarkan kunci utk crank enjin.... harap maklum. |
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Dipetik dari web Mobil;
Question:
Switching From Conventional Motor Oil to Mobil 1
There seems to be confusion about how to make the switch from conventional motor to synthetic. I am a do-it-yourselfer. Could you provide instructions?
-- Joe D., Miami, FL
Answer:
The instructions are very easy to follow: Simply change the oil as you would normally. Any 揷onfusion |
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Originally posted by ryo_takahashi1 at 29-8-2007 06:08 PM
bang... minyak fully syn ni nipis... jadi sesuai utk enjin2 baru yg piston suma masih ketat... berbanding semi atau mineral yg lebih tebal... sbb tu fully syn react lebih baik pada suhu yg sejuk ...
terima kasih |
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Castrol kejuteraan bendalir.....
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Biasa pakai castrol.....tapi hati-hati produk castrol yang murah,biasanya minyak suling semula. |
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Reply #36 Yen_Aireena's post
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ok kot, nko pakai dulu pastu bagi komen kat sini boleh kitorang try pulok |
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Originally posted by takumi86 at 25-8-2007 11:48 AM
aku pong pakai minyak CNI ni dedulu... memang ok!
worth monie for fully synt oil....
Yang betul2 unsangkarablenyer tu, kat label minyak itam CNI tu kata seswai untuk guna kat keter dan gak motor... sebab selalunya minyak itam untuk motor lain sket formula dier dgn minyak itam keter, pasal nak jaga klac motor yang memang terendam dalam minyak itam jangan kasi slip laa... |
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AKU X PENAH KENE CM NIE
PASAL MINYAK TIRUAN LA NIE
KUI3
JANGAN BELI BARANG MURAH N TATAU ASAL USUL K |
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aku selalu pakai shell helix plus......semi synt |
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Post time 29-8-2007 08:11 AM
Author
