AkuaRium

mozacs

Common Names: Julii Corydoras, Three-Lined Corydoras, False-Julii Corydoras

Scientific Name: Corydoras trilineatus

Distribution: Peruvian amazon: Rio Ampiyacu, Rio Ucayali and the Yarina Cocha. Ecuador: Rio Pastaza. (from Planetcatfish.com)

Family: Callichthyidae

Adult Size: 2 inches

Care: A hardy fish, keep the aquarium clean and have hiding places. Sand or rounded gravel is required, as sharp pieces of gravel will eventually destroy Cory's barbels. Temperature of 70-78 Fahrenheit. Not too fussy about pH, as long as it is reasonable. Remember to keep Cories in groups of 4 or more.

Feeding: They will eat anything that hits the bottom, mine especially relish sinking shrimp pellets. Don't make the mistake of thinking it is a scavenger and will find all its food in the sand, Cories need to be fed just like any other fish.

Sexing and Breeding: Just like other Corydoras species. Sexing: Females are fatter when looked at from above.
Breeding: Like other Cories, breeding requires a water change with cooler water (preferably a large water change, while making a lot of splashes on the surface), live and frozen food leading up to breeding is also beneficial.

mozacs

Common Name/s: Bristlenose Catfish

Scientific Namr: Ancistrus dolichopterus

Family: Loricariidae

Origin: Amazon River, South America

Maximum Size: 4.5" (12cm)

Care: Bristelnose catfish are not a strictly nocturnal fish. These algae eaters establish territories around caves, peices of wood and other hiding places found in tanks. These fish can become territorial and aggresive towards other members of the ancistrus family and rarely towards bottom dwelling fish such as corydoras catfish. They can tolerate a wide range conditions but generally prefer soft, acidic water which matches the conditions they are suited to in the wild. It is thought that these fish rasp on wood, so having a peice or two of bogwood or driftwood would be ideal.

Feeding: These fish eat algae which form on the tank glass, decorations and gravel, but their diet must be supplemented with meaty foods such as frozen bloodworms, vegetables such as zucchini and cucumber and sinking pallets.

Sexing and Breeding: An easy fish to breed. They mature at around 3" - 4" these fish can be easily sexed by the amount of bristles on their nose, males have a lot of bristles whereas the females have small amount. These fish breed in the males cave, orange eggs are laid by the female and protected by the male, who may not be seen for days, until the eggs hatch. Once the egss have hatched the male will try keep them together in a group, inside his cave, but the fry will slowly become escape and enter the tank. Feed the fry small foods.

Comments: A lovley catfish which is kept by both new and experienced fishkeepers. It is a common fish and is almost always avaliable.

mozacs

Scientific name: Balantiocheilus melanopterus

Common names: Bala shark, Silver shark, Tricolor Shark.

Family: Cyprinidae

Origin: Southeast Asia

Maximum size:13"

Care: The large adult size means that this fish should be kept in nothing less than a 75 gallon tank though larger is prefferable as the fish is a schooling species that needs to be kept in groups of at least 3. Bala sharks are not fussy of water parameters providing the water is clean and not overly hard or high in pH, the temperature should be kept between 22 and 28 celcius. A sand or small gravel substrate is preffered as the fish will spend a lot of time searching the substrate for food, avoid sharp decor as the fish is skittish and will often damage its self if frightened, tall plants along the back and sides of the tank will help to keep the fish calm. A tight well fitting lid is essential as the fish is a jumper and will attempt to leave the aquarium.

Feeding:Small live and frozen foods like bloodworm and daphnia are best though flakes and pellets will also be taken, some soft leaved plants may be nibbled on.

Sexing: Females are larger and more full bellied

Breeding: This fish has not been bred in captivity without the aid of hormone injections.

Notes: Large specimins have a high oxygen requirement so special care must be taken during the summer months to prevent the tank from over heating. During hot weather the use of a large airstone connected to a powerful air pump is recomended

mozacs

Photo provided by Suemack.

Common name/s: Batik Loach

Scientific name: Neomacheilus triangularis

Family: Cobitidae

Origin: India

Maximum size:3-5"

Care: They prefer warm water 80-81F and a PH of 6.9-7.2. Another Loach that prefers to live singly, however, it is still and peaceful Loach and makes a strange and wonderful addition to any peaceful community.

Feeding: Excepts most foods but frozen and live foods are far prefered.

Sexing and Breeding: Unknown

Comments: A shy Loach that often takes time to adapt to its new surrondings, provide plenty of hiding places so it can feel comfortable and venture out on its own accord. It prefers a fine soft substrate to burrow in. When nervous or stressed the fish can change from a light brown to a very deep black

mozacs

Common Name(s): Burmese Border Loach, Botia Angelicus, Polka Dot Loach

Scientific Name: Botia kubotai, recently re-named from Botia angelicus

Family: Cobitidae

Origin: Asia - Myanmar

Maximum Size: Up to 9.5cm (5")

Minimum Tank Size: 29 US gallons (recommended)

Care & Behaviour:
As with many Loaches, they are relatively easy to care for and a great addition to a community tank.
They really enjoy each other?s company and should ideally be kept in groups of 4 or more. They are real "cheeky chaps", very active and playful, so the more space the better.
They enjoy plenty of hiding spaces.

I have never seen any of mine remotely interested in (other) tank mates, and they appear to live in harmony with other peaceful bottom dwellers too.
They seem to tolerate and adjust to a wide range of water conditions (pH, hardness etc.) when well acclimatised.

Feeding:
Almost all general community foods are happily and greedily accepted. Flakes, small pellets, granules, crisps and much loved (algae & sinking) wafers.
Blanched vegetables (peas, zucchini, cucumber etc.).
They also love (thawed) frozen foods and live foods.
They are very loud "clickers" and will click enthusiastically when enjoying their food.

Tank mates:
As they are peaceful themselves, other peaceful tank mates are desired.

Breeding:
No known captive breeding.

Life Span:
10+ years.

Colour Pattern:
No two fish have the same pattern. Some have many small dots, others larger more loosely spaced dots.
Juveniles have three black stripes and five black bars, along with "four pairs of elongate yellow blotches".
As the fish ages, the bars and stripes widen, the yellow bits get narrower and spots extend into the bars.

Notes:
1) They do sometimes play-fight (only ever with each other - never other fish), and this can seem quite alarming at first.
One fish will appear more dominant and attack the other fish. The less dominant fish will completely discolour and almost looks beaten up.
This play-fight only lasts for 5 (up to 15) minutes or so, and no real harm is ever done.

2) Though most articles on the web state an adult size of 4", there have been reports of sizes up to 6" wild caught.

mozacs

Common name: Cherry Barb

Scientific name: Barbus titteya (formerly Puntius titteya)

Origin: Sri Lanka.

Family: Cyprinidae

Maximum size: 1.5 to 2 inches (3.8 to 5.1cm)

Care: A peaceful, active small fish, the cherry barb is hardy enough to cycle new tanks. They do well in the community freshwater tropical tank, as they are less nippy than other barbs. Happiest in groups of at least 6 (though they only shoal loosely), they may also be kept in a ratio of 1 male for every 2 females (some sources suggest that a male/female pair might also do well). They tend to occupy the bottom and middle strata of the aquarium. A moderately to densely planted tank with some shade will help these rather shy fish feel more comfortable, as well as set off their colors.

They are adaptable to a range of water conditions, and require tropical temperatures (73-81F or 23-27C). A minimum recommended tank size is 10g. Their life expectancy is as long as 5 years.

Feeding: These fish are not fussy (they are omnivores), and will accept a broad range of foods, including flake, frozen, live, and fresh vegetables.

Sexing: In terms of coloration, females are a tan/light pink with black lines. Males are slimmer bodied, and are a darker red with black lines (see pictures below). Before breeding, males will turn a very rich shade of red. In the store, males and females might sometimes be confused if conditions are stressful (males will turn pale, as will most fish under stress).

Breeding: Use of a breeding tank is helpful. Ideal water conditions for breeding consist of a well-planted tank with soft water and a pH of 6-6.5. Cherry barbs are egg-scatterers and will lay between 200-500 eggs at a time (most sources suggest 300 is the maximum). The parents should be removed if possible, as they do tend to eat the eggs. Fry will hatch in 24-48 hours and will be free-swimming within a week.

Comments: I have 3 lovely cherry barbs in a 5.5g tank with a pack of ghost shrimp. This is not ideal, as they do like room to explore and shoal. However, they do remain fairly small, and have done well with faithful tank maintenance and monitoring. I may transfer them in the future to my 29 gallon community tank and add 3 more to round out the group.

My group of three, females on the left and in the background, male on the right.

mozacs

Common Name(s): Amano/Yamato/Algae shrimp, Japanese Swamp shrimp

Scientific Name: Caridina multidentata (formerly C. japonica)

Family: Atyidae

Origin: Japan

Maximum Size: Up to 1.5-2锟

mozacs

Common name/s: Silver Arowana, Arahuana, Aruana, Arrowana, Arawana

Scientific name: Osteoglossum Bicirrhosum

Family: Osteoglossidae

Origin: Brazil, Peru, Amazon river basin and the still waters of Guyana.

Maximum size: 36" to 40"

Care: Minimum tank size of 180 gallons which can house young specimens, but as it grows, a larger tank will be necessary to prevent deformities and to ensure the maximum length and life span of the animal. At full size an adult Silver Arowana should have a tank of approximately 300 gallons. Soft and acidic (pH 6.0-6.9) water of 24 to 28 centigrade (75-82f) is recommended and the tank has to be well filtered. As with all large predatory fish weekly water changes of 30 to 40% are recommended. Because of the huge adult size of the Silver Arowana, and it being an aggressive predator, there are very few common aquarium species that can be kept with this fish. Tankmates have to be large and robust. In the wild, this fish survives by jumping for its food which includes insects and small birds as a result of this, the tank must be kept covered at all times and even weighted down as the fish grows.

Feeding: Will usually accept dead meaty foods such as cockles, mussels, prawns, whitebait etc, or even floating pellets. Live fish and crickets are particularly favoured.

Sexing: Unknown.

Breeding: A paternal mouthbrooder. When spawning, the pair swims around in circles and the female will lay her orange eggs, about the size of 8-12mm and then the male will fertilize them. The quantity of eggs laid range from anywhere between 50-250. The male holds a small clutch of large eggs in a brood pouch in his mouth and broods the larval fish for a further three weeks. At a size of 3-4cm the fish are released to allow them to feed but return to the male's mouth if danger threatens. The fish leave the mouth at an age of 4-6 weeks when they measure around 10cm/4" in length.

Comments: Often sold as juveniles and buyers are not aware of their potential size. Not a beginner fish due to its large tank requirements and high protein diet which leads to high nitrate and ammonia build up. Many people like having more than one Arowana in the tank; in this case, it is recommended to keep at least 5 to 6 in the tank at a time because Silver Arowanas are very aggressive towards each other.

Reduced: 62% of original size [ 1159 x 869 ] - Click to view full image


Additional Infomation [Edited 16/09/2007]:

Sexing: Mature females are much larger in circumference and the anal fin is not as long as the males.

Care: Regarding tank size, a tank too small and could result in stunting the fish, which would lead to the possibility of causing it to have gill curl. Gill curl is a condition where the gills of the Arowana will curl outward, and it results from the fish having to swim backwards due to an insufficient tank size. Silver Arowanas in particular, act very uncomfortable in bare tanks. They might knock some of their decor around, but they act much calmer in a decorated tank. Feel free to add live plants into the tank, perferably to both ends. Most species of Arowanas, if not all, do not eat vegetation. Plants may be knocked loose from time to time, but this is however by accident rather than intentionally.

Younger Silver Arowanas perfer still water. When there are no ripples, they will cruise the water surface, and are hence very sensitive to water disturbances. Shortly before their yolk sacs are fully absorbed, Silver Arowanas will readily accept small insects like young crickets and wingless fruit flies. It is noted that when fed insects, they tend to ignore feeder fish. This tendency continues through adulthood, and they will only eat fish if there isn't a choice. It is however important to note that in a tank with still water, Silver Arowanas are very territorial, and one dominant fish will kill its siblings or drive them to lower depths to starve, if they are not removed.

Feeding: "Gut loading" crickets with vegetables or fish flakes would provide additional nutrition to your Silver Arowana. This could be a way to feed your Silver Arowanas food that is avoided or ignored.

Comments: Many times, Silver Arowanas are found in shops when they still have the egg sac attached, meaning that they have been forcibly removed from the father and can be very difficult to raise due to their young age and rough removal. In my opinion, avoid buying young Silver Arowanas with the sac still attached unless you are a confident and experienced carer or breeder of Silver Arowanas. To go an extra mile, you could notify the shop keeper on your disappointment about the young Silver Arowanas

mozacs

ASIAN AROWANA

• The green is the most common variety, found in Vietnam, Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia, and Malaysia.
• The silver Asian (not to be confused with the silver arowana, Osteoglossum bicirrhosum) is considered part of the green variety by some. It has two subvarieties, the "grey tail silver" or "Pinoh arowana," and the "yellow tail silver," each found in a different part of the island of Borneo in Indonesia.
• The red-tailed golden is found in northern Sumatra, Indonesia.
• The gold crossback, blue Malayan, or Bukit Merah blue is native to the state of Pahang and Bukit Merah area in Perak, Malaysia.
• The red, super red, blood red, or chili red is known only from the upper part of the Kapuas River in western Borneo, Indonesia.
• Scleropages formosus was redescribed to include the strain known as the green arowana. The gold crossback, which was not part of the study, was included in this species by default.
• Scleropages macrocephalus described the silver Asian arowana.
• Scleropages aureus described the red-tailed golden arowana.
• Scleropages legendrei described the super red arowana.

SUPER RED AROWANA



RED TAIL GOLDEN AROWANA


GOLDEN AROWANA (Malaysian Crossback)






Mature red-tailed golden arowanas have brilliant metallic gold lateral scales, gill covers, bellies, and pectoral and pelvic fin membranes, although the back is dark. In juveniles the areas destined to develop golden colour start out metallic silver. The anal fin and the bottom portion of the caudal fin are light brown to dark red.

Mature gold crossback arowanas are distinguished from the red-tailed golden arowanas by having metallic gold crossing the back completely. This variety also lacks the reddish fins of the red-tailed golden

In mature super red arowanas, the gill covers, lateral scales, and fin membranes of these fishes are metallic red, with the exact hue varying from gold-tinged to deep red. The back is dark brown. In juveniles, the darker the dorsal colouration, the deeper the red will be on maturity.

[ Last edited by  mozacs at 27-11-2007 01:34 PM ]

mozacs

Bogwood.
This is the most common type and is very popular and widely available. It will release tannins in the water initially; this can be reduced by boiling in water for a min of 20mins and soaking overnight before placing in the aquarium.
This wood is heavy enough to sink without any help.
The tannins will acidify the water, slightly, so keep an eye on the pH levels, mostly at the beginning.

Mopani wood.
Mopani wood is one of the hardest, densest woods in nature so it will sink like a stone un-aided. Like bogwood it will release tannins in the water initially; this can be reduced by boiling in water for a min of 20mins and soaking overnight before placing in the aquarium.
It is naturally very gnarly and it has dark and pale streaks running through it. Compared to bog wood it can be expensive and is often sold by weight rather than by piece.
Edit

QUOTE

Mopani is generally sandblasted which removes the top layer of lignin which is beneficial (if not essential) to certain fish such as Royal Panaques (Plecs).

Driftwood.
Wood that is floating or that has been washed ashore.
This is very natural and safe to use, however driftwood for the seashore should not be used in freshwater tanks due to the amount of salt contained in it. This wood needs to be soaked for a few weeks to become waterlogged so that it sinks.

Mangrove Root.
This is a very hard wood and looks similar to bogwood when wet. It is very good for decorations and releases very few tannins. Only requires the initial boiling.

Green wood. Not recommended.
Live wood or recently chopped wood is best avoided. It will still contain sugars and starches and as these start to breakdown, the free oxygen in the water will be reduced.
It may also contain toxins (which are the trees natural defence) and/or parasites.

Fake Wood. The most expensive and limited range nevertheless worth a mention.
Totally safe for all aquatics and plants, however remember to rinse before use to get rid of any dust etc that may be on it

arnabkiut

waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
good infoooo
thank youuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu

bijanpenang

dasat nih..macam2 spesis ada

mummiena

hmy3: hmy3: hmy3:  alamak takutnyaaa..sebab rasanya memang white spot laa.... semuaa nemo (about 5 ekoq) dah ada white spot tu...ok nanti saya gi kedai, beli ubat. Thankssssss very much!:2cool:

mozacs

ni among species ikan yang biasa ada dijual di kedai akuarium
so boleh baca dan pilih ikan yang sesuai...
kalau rajin maintain, bela la ikan yang susah jaga dan mahal
kalau beginner atau malas nak tukar air...ambil la yang jenis hardy fish

tapi kos yang paling utama la...
arowana golden crossback gread A saiz 4" boleh sampai harga RM 5,000

mozacs

Nak tahu berapa lama umur ikan korang?



How long will your fish live?Few reference books include one of the most common questions asked by fish owners. How long should my fish live? The answer varies greatly depending on the species of fish. However, in general smaller fish have a shorter lifespan than larger fish, and fish that lay eggs live longer than those that give birth to live young.
The two most popular species of fish, Bettas and Goldfish are at opposite ends of the spectrum. Bettas live little more than two years, while Goldfish live for decades.
Here is a reference with the expected lifespan of popular aquarium fish. These figures are estimates, with good care fish may live much longer. If you can抰 find your fish listed here, check the Fish Library.
Adolfos Cory - 5 years
Angelfish - 10+ years
Apistogramma - 3 to 5 years
Archer Fish - 5 years
Armored Catfish - 7 to 15 years
Bala Shark - 10 years
Bandit Cory - 5 years
Banjo Cat - 7 to 15 years
Banjo Catfish - 5 to 8 years
Black Neon Tetra - 5 years
Black Phantom Tetra - 5 years
Black Shark - 4 to 10 years
Black Tetra - 5 years
Black Widow Tetra - 5 years
Blackfin Cory - 5+ years
Bleeding Heart Tetra - 5 years
Blindcave Fish - 5+ years
Bloodfin Tetra - 10+ years
Blue Gourami - 4 years
Boesman Rainbow - 5 years
Bronze Cory - 5 years
Bumble Bee Catfish - 5 to 8 years
Cardinal Tetra - 4 years
Cherry Barb - 5 to 7 years
Chocolate Gourami - 4 years
Clown Loach - 15+ years
Columbian Tetra - 5 years
Congo Tetra - 5 years
Convict - 10 to 18 years
Diamond Tetra - 5 years
Discus - 10 to 18 years
Dojo Loach - 10 years
Dwarf Gourami - 4 years
Emperor Tetra - 6 years
Festivum - 10+ years
Figure 8 Puffer - 5 years
Firemouth - 10 to 15 years
Frontosa - 8 to 15 years
Giant Danio - 5 to 7 years
Glass Catfish - 8 years
Glassfish - 8 years
Glowlight Tetra - 5 years
Goldfish - 10 to 30 years
Guppy - 3 to 5 years
Harlequin - 6 years
Hatchetfish - 5 years
Hog Nose Brochis - 10 years
Honey Gourami - 4 years
Jack Dempsey - 10 to 18 years
Jordan's Catfish - 10+ years
Killifish - 1 to 2 years
Kissing Gourami - 5 years
Lemon Tetra - 5 years
Leopard Danio - 5 to 7 years
Leporinus - 5+ years
Livingstoni - 10+ years
Midas Cichlid - 15+ years
Mollie - 4 years
Moonlight Gourami - 4 years
Neon Rainbow - 3 to 4 years
Neon Tetra - 5 to 10 years
Oscar - 10 to 18 years
Otocinclus - 5 years
Pacu - 10 years
Pearl Danio - 5 years
Pearl Gourami - 4 years
Pictus Catfish - 8 years
Piranha - 10 years
Platy - 3 to 5 years
Pleco - 7 to 15 years
Rafael Catfish - 7 to 15 years
Rainbow Shark - 4 to 10 years
Rams - 4 years
Rasboras - 5 to 10 years
Red Eye Tetra - 5 years
Red Rainbow - 5 years
Red Tailed Catfish - 15 years
Redtail Shark - 8 years
Rosy Barb - 5 years
Royal Pleco - 10+ years
Rummy Nose Tetra - 5 to 10 years
Rumy Nose Tetra - 5 years
Severum - 10 to 18 years
Silver Dollar - 10+ years
Silvertip Tetra - 5 years
Swordtails - 3 to 5 years
Texas Cichlid - 10+ years
Tiger Barb - 6 years
Tigerfish - 5 years
Tinfoild Barb - 10 years
Upside Down Catfish - 5 years
Weather Loach - 10 years
Whiptail - 10+ years
White Cloud Mountain Minnow - 5 to 7 years
Zebra Cichlid - 10+ years
Zebra Danio - 5 years

arnabkiut

baby arowana ade jual tak??
nk beli yg bso2 tk mampu..
berapa rege ek..
kt uamhade satu...pearl..dulu beli murah aje...58 henget...
berkenan sangat gn red arowana...tp tgk kt kedai..yg pjgn sejengkal lebeh pon dh 1200....

mozacs

nak bela arowana kena ikut bajet le

kalau saiz 4 inci,
silver/jardini                     = RM   80
green/ yellow tail              = RM 300
2nd grade red (G2)          = RM 500
red tail golden (RTG)        = RM 1,200
super red                         = RM 5,000
malaysian gold crossback = RM 6,000

so tepok dada tanya poket la


* tips - kalau serius, beli at least 2nd grade red atau RTG, baru berbaloi tengok
           ada duit lebih, off course ambik malaysian gold la

mozacs

guidelines untuk peminat arowana


Beginner's Guide to Buying and Keeping Asian Arowana (Dragon Fish) as a Hobby
(by Mr Nicolas Chia Poh Siong) 7991 views
Dragon Fish VarietiesThe Dragon Fish varieties are as follows:-

Green It is the cheapest in price among the variety of Dragon Fish as the demand is low due to unattractive colourisation exhibited when in adulthood (2-3 yrs of age). Yellow Tail This is commonly sold as grade 1.5 Red which in classifying "Red", it is much appealing to most hobbyists and thus, enhances the sales. Indonesian Golden (RTG) It is commonly known as Red Tail Gold (RTG). It can be further classified into Normal RTG and High Back RTG. The prior exhibit a gold colourisation up to the fourth while the latter has it gold colourisation rise to the fifth scale level and sometimes, gold speckles on the sixth scale level when in adulthood. High Back RTG usually commands a higher price than the Normal RTG. Malaysian Golden It is also known as Crossback Golden. It exhibit a gold colourisation up to sixth and highest scale level and "cross over the back" of the Dragon Fish. This engulfment of gold over the body is portrait by many as the Emperor Robe. Hence, Malaysian Golden is highly priced. Red It can be further classified into Orange Red, Chili Red and Blood Red. However, this classification of Red can only be done when the Dragon Fish is in adulthood. The young ones are all known as Super Red. This is the most sort after variety as red signify Wealth, Health and Good Luck. Cross-breed Usually sold as genuine grade fish after colour-enhancing. The commonly found variety of such is RTG/Green, RTG/1.5Red, Red/1.5Red, Red/RTG, Crossback/Green, Crossback/Red and Crossback/RTG. Axanthic and Albino These are the genetically mutated Dragon Fish which exhibit two prominent colour pigment. The prior has black eyes and white body and the latter has red eyes and white body. They are very rare and sort after by Dragoon Fish collectors. Usually only a few pieces in a year and hence, command a premium price.

stfunewbiez

masa aku dulu2 ada bela ikan keli dalam akuarium,
abis ikan2 keli tu gigit2 sesama sendiri pasal
terlupa bg makan

coelacanth

sape tau pasal produk ni...

http://bettadiscovery.com/eco_magic.htm

sape yg dah pakai...sbb biler aku call dieorg cakap harge dia RM450 skali ngan vitamin & good bacteria....best giler kalo dapat pakai filter ni...tak payah tukau air sampai bebiler...cuma tambah je biler air tu dah kurang....

so sesape yg dah pakai filter ni, aku nak pendapat korang betul ke tak tak payah tukar air....katanyer jabatan perikanan pun berminat dgn benda nih...dan diaorg nak ternak ikan laut skang nih guna teknologi ni...made in taiwan kalo tak silap....

skang ade jual kat 1Utama....